内衣外穿

内衣外穿是一种受名人、体育界和媒体界推崇的时尚潮流（英语：fashion trend），最初随着T恤和比基尼泳衣等实用舒适服饰种类的诞生出现，但后来演变成饱受争议、被认为有挑衅性的时尚宣扬。到了21世纪，这种类型的女性版本会展示丁字裤和胸罩，男性版本展示低腰裤下的男式内裤。而早在16世纪至17世纪，内衣外穿便有历史先例^[1]。

布兰妮·斯皮尔斯（左）和奥斯卡·洛亚（英语：Oscar Loya）（右）曾在舞台表演时外穿内衣。

历史

内衣外穿潮流正式出现的时间尚不明确，不过，1920年代香奈儿发明了由泽西布（英语：jersey (布料)）制造的女性内裤，而这种布料一般用于制造内衣^[2]。后来众所周知，另一个内衣外穿的知名版本随着第二次世界大战后T恤被发明出现^[3]。短袖衬衫最初被看作维多利亚风格内衣的舒适替代品，但一部分青少年受了占士·甸和马龙·白兰度等人分别在《阿飞正传》和《欲望号街车》等电影中的穿衣影响，将衬衫外穿^[3]^[4]。文艺复兴前期，比基尼泳衣等泳衣一开始被当成外衣^[5]，而由分层的雪纺、聚酯色丁和软缎（英语：charmeuse）制造，一般用蕾丝修边的吊带裙于1990年代（英语：1990s in fashion）首次广泛穿着^[6]。

麦当娜在金发雄心世界巡回演唱会（英语：Blond Ambition World Tour）上的表演（1990）。

在娱乐界，摔跤手和马戏演员的制服一般为内衣样式的服装；前DC漫画编辑朱利叶斯·施瓦兹（英语：Julius Schwartz）表示这就是超人等超级英雄把内裤穿在外衣上面的原因^[7]。随后，麦当娜掀起了女歌手舞台表演时内衣外穿的潮流，后来被碧昂丝、女神卡卡、布兰妮·斯皮尔斯等人模仿^[8]。当时，让-保罗·高缇耶为麦当娜的金发雄心世界巡回演唱会（英语：Blond Ambition World Tour）设计了“束腹”（90年代初服装的象征式标志）^[9]、一款锥形文胸和束腰带（英语：girdles）^[10]^[11]。男性方面，垮裤（连同滑雪板）一般被认为由1990年代的说唱嘻哈艺人推崇^[12]。

1968年的性革命运动中，受伦敦庞克文化和哥德次文化影响的年轻女性，开始将束腰改为反叛和“性怪异”的标志。这次的变化，使得曾经被认为是压迫女性的束腰，摇身变成女性赋权的服装标志^[13]。除了恋内衣，束腰也出现在晚礼服和结婚礼服上^[14]。

运动装

在不同服装品牌推陈出新的助推下，T恤衫最终成为运动装^[3]。1975年，运动胸罩首次出现，自此成了女性的首选^[15]。但在1999年国际足联女子世界杯决赛中，美国队的布兰迪·查斯顿凭借在点球大战中射入第五球战胜中国队。庆祝胜利时，查斯顿突然脱下衬衣，露出运动胸罩。部分人认为她的举动是推动运动胸罩的历史性事件^[15]^[16]。自那时起，运动胸罩开始逐渐被人外穿^[17]。

文化影响

参加2015年地铁无裤日（英语：No Pants Subway Ride）的墨西哥城办公室上班族。

2001年鲸尾巴

社会通常将外穿内衣的民众超现实主义、搞笑。无裤日在许多西方国家是年度活动，这一天民众公开外穿内裤，暴露双腿。类似的活动是地铁无裤日（英语：No Pants Subway Ride），还有内衣一族跑（英语：Undie Run）活动。

踏入21世纪，低腰裤的普及让鲸尾巴（英语：whale tail）意外流行，女生们立志穿着“凸显臀部”的服装^[18]，但是男性们穿垮裤却影响了相当大的争议，部分美国城镇甚至将这种行为当成猥亵，勒令停止^[19]^[20]。终于，随着2000年代末高腰（英语：High-waisted jeans）服饰的出现，鲸尾巴这一趋势终结^[21]。

但是男性的服装就没有经过这样的反弹，男生若是穿高腰裤，会被人嘲笑，说是在穿老爸款牛仔裤（英语：Dad jeans）^[22]。内衣公司注意到男生喜欢将裤子拉到臀部地方，这样坐着的时候低腰裤就会落到内裤下面，穿紧身裤的男性便可以暴露他们内衣的腰带^[23]，于是在设计腰带时采用亮色和更大的标志^[24]。Clavin Klein内衣创意设计者鲍勃·马佐利（Bob Mazzoli）2009年解释称：“腰带虽是功能性组件，却是营销平台和实际设计时的画布......有些人将牛仔裤拉到腰部以下，将内裤露出来，引起其他人注意，已经成了我们民间文化风俗的一部分，我们在设计过程中就要考虑到这一点。”2(x)ist的创意总监杰森·斯卡拉蒂（Jason Scarlatti）补充：“这是顾客吹嘘的权利，就好像在说，‘我为此花了很多钱’^[24]。”Jockey是公认的首个将商标印在腰带上的内衣品牌，该公司于2013年启动营销活动，模特们拉起衬衫，展示牛仔裤和短裤上的Jockey腰带^[25]。

参见

参考资料

^ Lisa Jardine. Underwear as outerwear. BBC News. 2008-10-24 [2010-02-05]. （原始内容存档于2020-11-09）.
^ From Marlon Brando to Kendall Jenner, 27 of the Best Classic White T-Shirts Ever. Vogue. 2015-05-20 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-07-07）.
^ ^3.0 ^3.1 ^3.2 monty. History of the T-Shirt | Men's T-Shirt Style Ideas | Burton. Burton. 2018-09-05 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-07-07）.
^ A Streetcar Named Desire – AMC filmsite. Filmsite.org. 1947-12-03 [2010-10-26]. （原始内容存档于2012-08-02）.
^ Stephanie Pedersen. Bra. David & Charles. 2004: 8. ISBN 0-7153-2067-X.
^ Amy T. Peterson & Ann T. Kellogg (编). The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through American history 1900 to the present. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press. 2008: 229. ISBN 9780313358555. ^{[失效链接]}
^ Hiskey, Daven. Why Superheroes Wear their Underwear on the Outside. Today I Found Out. 2013-12-26 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-11-23）.
^ Alice Fisher. Underwear as outerwear . The Observer. 2009-11-29 [2010-02-05]. （原始内容存档于2019-04-10）.
^ San Martin, Macarena (2011). Fashion Details: 1,000 Ideas from Neckline to Waistline, Pockets to Pleats. page 6. Rockport Publishers. ISBN 978-1-5925-3716-7.
^ Dana, Rebecca. Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Madonna: Dueling Cone Bras. The Daily Beast. 2010-06-15 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-07-07）.
^ Steele, Valarie. “The Hard Body A Muscular Corset.” The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven & London: Yale UP, 2001. 143-176. Print
^ "Teens' Sagging Jeans Not Just for 'Gangstas.'", Jennifer Skordas, Salt Lake Tribune. 15 October 1995 (p. B1).
^ Wilkins, Amy. "So Full of Myself as a Chick": Goth Women, Sexual Independence, and Gender Egalitarianism. Gender and Society. June 2004, 18 (3): 328–49. JSTOR 4149405. doi:10.1177/0891243204264421.
^ Crane, Diana. “Postmodernism and the Avant-Garde: Stylistic Change in Fashion Design.” Modernism/Modernity, 4, (1997), 123-140.
^ ^15.0 ^15.1 Komar, Marlen. The Surprising Feminist History Of The Sports Bra Will Make You Seriously Angry. Bustle. [2019-03-22]. （原始内容存档于2020-10-11）.
^ Roberts, Jacob. Women's work. Distillations. 2017, 3 (1): 6–11 [2018-03-22]. （原始内容存档于2018-03-23）.
^ Krucoff, Carol. Sports Bras Are a Bust for Some. Los Angeles Times. 1999-08-09 [2009-09-11]. （原始内容存档于2009-04-06）.
^ Celebrities Are Showing Off Butt Cleavage - ABC News. ABC News. 2002-07-25 [2006-01-06]. （原始内容存档于2020-12-16）.
^ Siddique, Haroon. US town bans saggy pants. The Guardian (Guardian Media Group). 2007-06-14 [2007-06-15].
^ Schneiderman, R.M. Ad Campaign Asks Queens Bus Riders to Pull Up Their Pants. The Wall Street Journal. Metropolis (blog). 2010-05-17 [2010-05-28]. （原始内容存档于2020-08-09）.
^ Kczynski, Alex. Now You See It, Now You Don't. New York Times (Fashion & Style). 2004-09-12 [2008-10-30]. （原始内容存档于2015-05-28）. Certainly, American clothing designers are now embracing a more modest look, their focus shifting from low-slung jeans and exposed midriffs to high-waisted trousers and cardigans.
^ Associated Press. Obama: No apologies for 'dad jeans'. Chicago Sun Times. 2009-07-21 [2013-02-05]. （原始内容存档于2010-03-02）.
^ Underwear shows more than you think: Underwear Matters - AskMen. AskMen（英语：AskMen）. [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-07-04）. Men tend not to wear their trousers around their waists anymore, especially when it comes to jeans. Low-rise jeans are made to sit on your hips and this leaves the waistband of your underwear exposed. Your underwear is more visible than you think; the slight bend over or lift of your arms can show the world what you're rocking down there.
^ ^24.0 ^24.1 Underwear Waistbands: A Peekaboo Fashion Trend - WWD. WWD. 2009-04-09 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-10-20）.
^ Are You Ready to Show You're Jockey?. 2013-05-17 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2013-11-28）. Ever noticed guys with low-riding jeans deliberately showing their briefs’ waistband? Not the peeking type? Well, Jockey is. And they’ve turned this into a campaign. Jockey, inventor of the men’s Y-Front briefs and the first to use a branded waistband, launched their “Show You’re Jockey” campaign last Wednesday, May 15 at the Society Lounge in Makati City. The worldwide campaign will feature men and women of different nationalities revealing their Jockey underwear.

外部链接

Tove Hermanson. Innerwear as Outerwear. Thread for Thought blog. 2009-09-01 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2009-09-28）.
For More Fashion Products Visit Hollywood Leather Jackets （页面存档备份，存于互联网档案馆）
- For Develop Something new Visit [1]（页面存档备份，存于互联网档案馆）

[1] Lisa Jardine. Underwear as outerwear. BBC News. 2008-10-24 [2010-02-05]. （原始内容存档于2020-11-09）.

[2] From Marlon Brando to Kendall Jenner, 27 of the Best Classic White T-Shirts Ever. Vogue. 2015-05-20 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-07-07）.

[Burton-3] 3.0 ^3.1 ^3.2 monty. History of the T-Shirt | Men's T-Shirt Style Ideas | Burton. Burton. 2018-09-05 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-07-07）.

[4] A Streetcar Named Desire – AMC filmsite. Filmsite.org. 1947-12-03 [2010-10-26]. （原始内容存档于2012-08-02）.

[5] Stephanie Pedersen. Bra. David & Charles. 2004: 8. ISBN 0-7153-2067-X.

[6] Amy T. Peterson & Ann T. Kellogg (编). The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through American history 1900 to the present. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press. 2008: 229. ISBN 9780313358555. ^{[失效链接]}

[7] Hiskey, Daven. Why Superheroes Wear their Underwear on the Outside. Today I Found Out. 2013-12-26 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-11-23）.

[8] Alice Fisher. Underwear as outerwear . The Observer. 2009-11-29 [2010-02-05]. （原始内容存档于2019-04-10）.

[9] San Martin, Macarena (2011). Fashion Details: 1,000 Ideas from Neckline to Waistline, Pockets to Pleats. page 6. Rockport Publishers. ISBN 978-1-5925-3716-7.

[10] Dana, Rebecca. Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Madonna: Dueling Cone Bras. The Daily Beast. 2010-06-15 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-07-07）.

[11] Steele, Valarie. “The Hard Body A Muscular Corset.” The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven & London: Yale UP, 2001. 143-176. Print

[12] "Teens' Sagging Jeans Not Just for 'Gangstas.'", Jennifer Skordas, Salt Lake Tribune. 15 October 1995 (p. B1).

[13] Wilkins, Amy. "So Full of Myself as a Chick": Goth Women, Sexual Independence, and Gender Egalitarianism. Gender and Society. June 2004, 18 (3): 328–49. JSTOR 4149405. doi:10.1177/0891243204264421.

[14] Crane, Diana. “Postmodernism and the Avant-Garde: Stylistic Change in Fashion Design.” Modernism/Modernity, 4, (1997), 123-140.

[komar-15] 15.0 ^15.1 Komar, Marlen. The Surprising Feminist History Of The Sports Bra Will Make You Seriously Angry. Bustle. [2019-03-22]. （原始内容存档于2020-10-11）.

[Distillations-16] Roberts, Jacob. Women's work. Distillations. 2017, 3 (1): 6–11 [2018-03-22]. （原始内容存档于2018-03-23）.

[krucoff-17] Krucoff, Carol. Sports Bras Are a Bust for Some. Los Angeles Times. 1999-08-09 [2009-09-11]. （原始内容存档于2009-04-06）.

[18] Celebrities Are Showing Off Butt Cleavage - ABC News. ABC News. 2002-07-25 [2006-01-06]. （原始内容存档于2020-12-16）.

[19] Siddique, Haroon. US town bans saggy pants. The Guardian (Guardian Media Group). 2007-06-14 [2007-06-15].

[20] Schneiderman, R.M. Ad Campaign Asks Queens Bus Riders to Pull Up Their Pants. The Wall Street Journal. Metropolis (blog). 2010-05-17 [2010-05-28]. （原始内容存档于2020-08-09）.

[21] Kczynski, Alex. Now You See It, Now You Don't. New York Times (Fashion & Style). 2004-09-12 [2008-10-30]. （原始内容存档于2015-05-28）. Certainly, American clothing designers are now embracing a more modest look, their focus shifting from low-slung jeans and exposed midriffs to high-waisted trousers and cardigans.

[22] Associated Press. Obama: No apologies for 'dad jeans'. Chicago Sun Times. 2009-07-21 [2013-02-05]. （原始内容存档于2010-03-02）.

[23] Underwear shows more than you think: Underwear Matters - AskMen. AskMen（英语：AskMen）. [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-07-04）. Men tend not to wear their trousers around their waists anymore, especially when it comes to jeans. Low-rise jeans are made to sit on your hips and this leaves the waistband of your underwear exposed. Your underwear is more visible than you think; the slight bend over or lift of your arms can show the world what you're rocking down there.

[WWD-24] 24.0 ^24.1 Underwear Waistbands: A Peekaboo Fashion Trend - WWD. WWD. 2009-04-09 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-10-20）.

[25] Are You Ready to Show You're Jockey?. 2013-05-17 [2020-10-04]. （原始内容存档于2013-11-28）. Ever noticed guys with low-riding jeans deliberately showing their briefs’ waistband? Not the peeking type? Well, Jockey is. And they’ve turned this into a campaign. Jockey, inventor of the men’s Y-Front briefs and the first to use a branded waistband, launched their “Show You’re Jockey” campaign last Wednesday, May 15 at the Society Lounge in Makati City. The worldwide campaign will feature men and women of different nationalities revealing their Jockey underwear.

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